Should I get a grass collector or not? There are many reasons for and against collecting your grass cuttings. Here are some reasons to help you decide: Benefits of using a Collector: + A cleaner looking lawn is achieved as no grass cuttings are left behind. Note some lawns can look tired or dry simply from the dry and composting grass cuttings within the lawn. + Prevents weeds from spreading because seed heads are removed and not left to germinate. + Prevents over fertilisation and thatch, for more mature lawns; too much ‘thatch’ (a layer of dead plant matter) can restrict the growth of your grass and give way to moss. + Makes cutting easier because you are not cutting grass that has previously been cut. + Collected cuttings make excellent compost material. Benefits of not using a Collector: + Grass can re-absorb nutrients lost through cutting by mulching (fertilising the grass with grass that has been cut). This helps the grass stay healthy and resistant to infection provided there is not more than can be digested by the grass. More frequent but small cuts (around 1/3 of grass length) are best. + Convenience of not having to periodically empty cuttings. + No requirement for provision of compost or disposal facilities to empty the cuttings into. What is the difference in cutting methods? Frictional: This is the conventional form of cutting for older or more affordable cylinder mowers. The blades of the cylinder slice along the face of the bed knife (the straight static blade at the bottom of the mower) the action is very much like the blades of a pair of scissors shearing together. Contact-free: With contact free there is a small gap (typically 0.05mm) between the cylinder blade and the bed knife hence the name contact free. The gap is so small that the cutting action is virtually the same as with a frictional cut but the result is zero friction. So every bit of energy is going into cutting only the grass. Making the mower easier to push than a conventional friction action. Will the mower need any service or maintenance? Manual mowers do not require servicing, however you may wish to oil the blades with an oily rag or WD40 after cutting or at the end of the season to improve the cutting process and prolong their life further. When do the blades need sharpening? This varies from mower to mower and lawn to lawn but all mowers should stay sharp for at least three to five years. You can tell when your mower needs sharpening when cutting becomes more labour intensive and the cutting edge of the blades are slightly rounded when looked at close up. How do I sharpen the blades? Blades can be re-sharpened at most garden machinery dealers throughout the country. Normally the cylinder and bottom blade are removed for this. The cost is generally around £25 for sharpening of the cylinder and bed knife (bottom blade). What is the effect of cutting width? - More width = less cutting time: The wider the cutting width the more grass you are cutting and so the less time it will take to cut your lawn, similarly; - More width = more effort: The wider the cut the more effort is expended. As a general rule it is best to choose a small cutting width for a small lawn (30cm for example for up to 250m2) and a larger cutting width for a larger lawn. - More width = more mower lifetime: The wider the cutting width the longer the lifetime of the blade will be (per unit area of lawn). For example 30% extra width should give 30% extra lifetime. Effect of cutting height The longer the grass - the healthier it is. As cutting height decreases - the risk of plant damage, infection and dehydration increase. Shorter grass is also less competitive to weeds and has reduced durability. As a guideline it is generally best to not cut more than half of the length of the grass.